Antique Rose Cut Diamond Ring - A Unique and Fun Project

A client went on a trip to England and bought an intriguing ring while on her journey. She brought this ring to us to have it checked, sized, and appraised.

This client bought a very interesting ring while in England. It has 25 rose cut diamonds in an oval platinum top. In my estimation, these rose cut diamond, were cut in the early 1700s. These diamonds were gnarly in their shape, a variety of sizes and depths, making each stone very unique. My client said she was told, that the ring was once a cufflink and the ring shank had been added years later. We found this to be true, as all the English trademark and quality markings had nothing to do with the top of the ring. The trademarks indicated the piece was sterling and gold, but in fact the top of the ring was made in platinum. After doing metal tests on the ring, we found that the plate the diamond were set in was platinum and the shank was 14k yellow gold.

I started doing research to further my education on rose cut diamonds and found some interesting facts about them. The GIA indicates that rose cut diamonds of this sort were cut as early as the 1500s. This cut gets its name because the shape is intended to resemble a rose bud. Rose cut diamonds feature a flat bottom with a dome shape reaching a point or apex. Here is a diagram from the GIA showing the attributes of a rose cut stone.

Illustration of rose cut gemstones.

Illustration of rose cut gemstones.

When the ring was brought in, my client told us a diamond had fallen out and another jeweler had replaced it reluctantly, but refused to do any additional work to the ring because of its age. We found the ring to be in good enough condition and could be sized without a problem. Because of the extreme age of the ring, all this work was done at the customer’s risk, but was accomplished without any problems. As I said earlier, I conducted research to refresh my memory about rose cut diamonds, which has now intrigued me to learn more about diamonds that were cut from 1500 through 1800. I want to know more about their origins, where the were cut, and how they were distributed. It is said that my great grandfather imported diamonds from Russia, which led to the migration of my family from Russia to the United States in the late 1800s.

Rose cut diamond with flat bottom and faceted apex.

Rose cut diamond with flat bottom and faceted apex.

I will continue to post blogs as I learn more about the early origins and history of the diamond industry. I am excited about my upcoming research.